2024 Riesling

Let's face it, there are very few things in life that we can comfortably rely upon.  The constant expansion of the Universe, the predictable enthusiasm of a Golden Retriever and the aromatic intensity of Riesling are just a few examples that immediately come to mind.  I'll tackle the origin of Riesling aromatics here and leave the other two phenomena for you to ponder at your leisure.

The Riesling story always begins in the vineyard, with clone choice and terroir.  In most instances, choosing the best clone for your site is a strategic exercise of thorough consideration, while other times a shipping container mysteriously gets "lost at sea" and you take what you can get.  The planting of Clone 49 Riesling on our farm falls more into the latter category, which I now consider a stroke of luck.  The well-drained, clay loam soils bordering the Four Mile Creek proved to be a perfect home for this finicky, Alsatian clone.

While we may not have the dramatic slopes and altitude of its clonal homeland, our unique St. David's Bench climate and terroir somehow manages to spoil us with expressive Riesling aromatics on a yearly basis.  Channeling my inner Alsatian farmer, the focal points early in the growing season are crop level and canopy management.  I've come to learn that Clone 49 can be cropped on the heavier side, providing the canopy is healthy and green.  Fruit exposure decisions are made later in the season based on disease pressure, water status and weather trends.

In 2024, we faced a summer of extreme precipitation events, leading to a fuller canopy and an average size Riesling crop.  It was decided to remove a few leaves in the fruiting zone at veraison to air things out a bit, but care was taken not to overexpose the fruit and compromise our preferred style.  Prospects were looking good in the Riesling through August and early September until a stretch of typical harvest-time humidity.  Windless, humid days and foggy mornings made it impossible for the vines to dry out properly and in quick succession botrytis spores began multiplying on the surfaces of our soaking clusters.  We opted to harvest (in the nick of time!) on September 27th with ideal juice numbers of 18ºBrix, TA 8.6 g/L and pH 3.06.

It was apparent early on in the fermentation process that the aromatic potential was high - i.e. you could distinctly smell the fermenting Riesling as you pulled into the barn parking lot.  I prefer to ferment my Riesling in tank with W15 yeast at a very cool temperature (9-10ºC) to preserve the bright fruit components, eventually stopping the fermentation before reaching complete dryness at a specific gravity of 1.004. 

The resulting wine showcases standout notes of candied green apple, citrus, peach and perfumed floral undertones.  It also features palate-awakening acidity and just enough residual sugar to achieve harmonious balance.  In other words, everything that I've come to love about Clone 49!