2022 Syrah

My perspective on growing Syrah is a complicated one that has shifted over time.  Winterkill vintages, like 2022, are a reminder of just how tenuous this whole business can be.  An entire vineyard that holds only 15% of it's normal yield is a depressing challenge that can lead one to question the worthiness of the pursuit.  However, the fact that there is any fruit at all is a blessing compared to the travails faced by those in the Okanagan, who've lost everything in recent years.

I've come to learn, through the process of trying to source replacement Syrah grapevines in a time of high demand, that the clones we currently grow are a dying breed.  Nurseries are hesitant to propagate Clone 100 or Clone 7 these days, due to their likelihood of developing a foreboding (and aptly prophetic) grapevine disease known as "Syrah Decline".  Moreover, Syrah was not included as one of the acceptable varietals to plant in a recent Government funded vineyard replacement initiative.  Key evidence that industry stakeholders do not view it as a financially viable option to grow in our region.

With so many strikes against Syrah one is left wondering, "is the juice worth the squeeze?"

Well...of course it is!

The 2022 Syrah crop was one of cleanliness and quality, thanks to a trend of dry weather in the late September days of that vintage.  The precious few hanging clusters ripened optimally in those conditions and started to show signs of desiccation and concentration by the time they were ready to harvest on October 11th.  The final tally was 84 picking boxes (1008 kg), with the majority of the fruit being sourced from the Clone 100 block.

The entire crop was fermented together in one bin for twelve days, with three daily punchdowns and a pretty hot peak temperature of 35°C.  The Syrah was then gently squeezed in our antique basket press after two full weeks on the skins.  Three French oak barrels were subsequently filled, where the wine was allowed to undergo malolactic fermentation and mature for two years.  66 cases were bottled on April 17th, 2025.

The hallmarks of Syrah grown in a cool climate are on full display here:  dark fruit, peppercorn, smokiness and smooth texture all in harmony.  Any dish of wild game or hearty ragù would make a great pair for this wine.  I would expect even more fruit intensity over the next few years in bottle, based on the evolution of previous small yield vintages.

I treat every year that I can put Syrah into a bottle, however small the quantity, like a gift from the vineyard Gods.